And So It Begins: Christmas in Strasbourg Part I

After Barcelona, the week passed very fast–so fast in fact that as Colleen arrived Wednesday evening, it felt like that was the beginning of the weekend. It was great because it took me back to my first few weeks here as I got to be a tourist all over again. I took Colleen through the city, and though we didn’t explore too many of the sites here, we walked for hours through the city and around the Christmas markets, which had started up this weekend.

As we had all missed Thanksgiving at home, those Georgetown students who were here for the weekend got together on Friday afternoon to cook Thanksgiving dinner for us and the host family whose house we used. I was put in charge of the salad (artisan lettuce, arugula, pears, goat cheese, and candied walnuts) and the sweet potato casserole, which all turned out great, and I look forward to making it again for my parents when I have a 2nd Thanksgiving dinner over winter break :). In addition, the host family ordered the turkey, but we also made mashed potatoes, stuffing, cranberry sauce, pumpkin pie, and apple pie. Everything was delicious, and it made me look forward to cooking again–so much so that I already started compiling a list of French foods I plan on trying to make when I’m home.

While we were waiting for some of the food to cook, we took a break to watch the lighting ceremony in Strasbourg during which they had a little concert and at the end, lit up all the lights they had been installing for the past several weeks in the city. Though the spectacle before was a little dull, and the commentator kept drawing it out, seeing the lights light up for the first time with a puff of confetti was worth it. Though it doesn’t quite feel like winter yet (we’ve had abnormally warm weather this weekend), it did get us excited for the Christmas season and got us hoping for some snow.

 

On Saturday, we spent the entire day walking through the Christmas markets. There are a dozen different ones set up in squares throughout the city, but they are all within a 5 minute walk from my apartment. So convenient, yet also swarming with tourists already. We heard that this weekend and the weekend after will be ok, but after that, there will be so many people coming to the Christmas markets that you can barely move. However, we were there early enough, that we got to see everything. There are several stores selling Christmas Alsatian specialties, from bredel cookies and beignets to spaetzel and choucroute (sauerkraut) and hot wine in addition to the other stalls selling Christmas ornaments, wooden carvings, candles, soaps, scarfs, and on and on. Of course, we were more interested in the foods (and I already started making a list of all the foods I plan on buying on my last week here so I can bring back home), and we filled our stomachs with bretzels and beignets and even a bowl of choucroute with sausage and potatoes.

 

 

 

After several hours of exploring each market, we made our way to Place Kleber in the evening to watch the lighting of the Christmas tree and a ballet performance put on by the host country this year, Georgia. Though there were so many people that we could barely see anything, we got to see the light show and the sudden illumination of the Christmas tree. The streets were so crowded with people, that we began to wonder where all these people had come from. Of course with the Christmas markets as the attraction, there were more people, but it was incredible that it could go from the night before when I would literally be the only one walking on the streets to that night when there were so many people you could only shuffle down the streets. We would have at least expected to see when all these people had arrived, or some sign of where they were staying. Regardless, I’m glad to have gotten a fill of the Christmas markets before they got too crowded, though I will have to brave the huge crowds the week before Christmas to get my goods I want to bring home. I hope my parents will be ready for lots of random French food products.

Barcelona: Mountains and Oceans, City and Fields

Barcelona was my last big trip for my semester abroad, and I couldn’t have asked for a better place to have gone. Already travel-worn from straight traveling between Italy and London, I was ready to be done. But what I found in Barcelona was a relaxing city (and a most relaxing stay with my aunt and family) with a bit of everything for everyone. Whether you like mountains or oceans, big cities or small towns, I’m pretty sure Barcelona was meant to suit everyone…now all we have to do is learn Spanish or Catalan.

The first day, I was waiting for Gavin to get in and was a little unsure of the timing, so my aunt offered to take me around to see some sites. She took me up to the tallest mountain in Barcelona. After several bus transfers and a gondola ride to the top, we finally arrived at the highest point in the city from where you could see the entire city all the way to the ocean on a clear day. Unfortunately, the slightest bit of fog obscures the view a bit, so we couldn’t quite see as well as we had hoped, but the sun was shining just enough that we could see through the fog shrouding the city. It was beautiful. At the top of Tibidabo is also a large church that we went into. It looked like a rougher, more colorful stone cave-looking building was holding up the grander looking white church. We climbed up the stairs to the top and entered the white church. Now as you can recall, I’ve seen plenty of churches, and this one didn’t really stand out. It was dimly lit, with perfect white stone walls, but other than its impeccable cleanliness, nothing really set it apart. As we were about to walk down, my aunt suggested entering the stone building beneath to see what was inside. And we stepped into another church, but this one was much more impressive. Though the outside was more roughly constructed, the dazzling mosaics covering the four nooks at the front of the church distinguished this church from the white one above it. I stood in awe beneath each mosaic made of shimmery, colorful tiles presenting images of sailboats, the mountains in Barcelona, and religious figures.

We made our way back to the apartment afterwards just in time to pick up Gavin. We then headed to the city center near Catalunya Place to meet Pieter and Molly for some tapas and wine. We wandered down Las Ramblas, which reminded me of the Champs-Elysee in Paris, so we avoided the tourist traps down the main street and turned onto a small alley and found a small restaurant. Gavin and I ordered a few tapas to share, including grilled asparagus  a croquette, and grilled provolone with “fruits of the forest,” meaning berries. It was all delicious and went perfectly with a Spanish red wine. After our dinner, we wandered down the main street again, catching up while also admiring the Christmas lights that were hung but not yet lit as we anticipated the start of the advent and for it to feel like the holidays.

The next day, Gavin and I set off to the center of the city again to explore and see a few of the well-known sites. We started at Las Ramblas again and passed through the markets, much like the ones seen throughout Europe with various fresh vegetables, fruits, and seafood. The fruit in Barcelona looked particularly enticing, but as we had just finished breakfast, we decided to hold off. Afterwards, we made our way towards the beach, and after getting lost in the marina, we eventually found the right path and made our way to the Mediterranean.

This beach was different from the one in Cassis, as it was all sand instead of pebbles and there were waves washing onto the shore. It looked more like a typical beach, but with clean dark sand and bluer water. We took off our shoes and walked along the beach, dipping our toes in every now and then, but it was too cold to get any more wet. However, I could imagine this as a great summer attraction. It’s very strange because it’s such a historic looking city, but there are also palm trees everywhere, which remind me of tropical resorts in America. Afterward, we washed off our feet and set out to find a restaurant. Though paella isn’t a Barcelona specialty, I figured I should have it since it is a Spanish specialty, and this would be the only city I visit in Spain. Gavin had his heart set on Fideua, which is like Paella, but with short noodles instead. So we stopped at every restaurant to look for these two dishes that weren’t too expensive. We walked down several blocks and even turned around to go back to one that had both but was a little pricey when we saw a small restaurant sitting in what probably was a tourist trap, but it had a great view of the ocean, so we decided we wouldn’t mind paying a little extra for the view. Luckily, the price was cheaper than the other place, the restaurant had both our dishes and a great view over the ocean. The Spanish bread isn’t nearly as good as the French, but it is nice that they give you free baskets of bread–something I wasn’t accustomed to in Europe. Then our dishes came, and we each took half of each, and the waiter piled both dishes on our plates. We squirt lemon over our paella (which is a Spanish rice dish mixed with pork and seafood) and mixed in a garlic mayonnaise sauce with our fideua. It was delicious, but it was so much food, that I actually some on my plate (which if you know me, is unusual. I’m usually a member of the clean plate club…so clean that I usually scrape every bit of food and sauce with my fork so that it looks like I had licked the plate).

After lunch (the Spanish have lunch from 2-4pm and dinner from 8-10pm), we made our way to the Sagrada Familia. I wasn’t too excited to see yet another church, and didn’t really understand much about the history or importance of the giant cathedral built by Gaudi. My first impression was a tall spiny building that looked like it had gotten wax poured over it. But as we walked in the gates and saw the statues adorning the entrance that were so different from any I had seen in all of Europe, I began anticipating an exciting visit. Which is exactly what I got, as we walked in and I was taken aback by the strange architecture and magnificence of the church. It was unlike anything I had ever seen or could even imagine. The Cathedral was started over 100 years ago, and is still under construction, but the fact that Gaudi had imagined this architecture so long ago, yet it still remains very modernist and avant-garde astounded me. Everything was very angular, and I felt like I had walked into a geometrical forest. I was reminded of Alice in Wonderland or even the candy fields and trees in Charlie and the Chocolate Factory. We admired the cubic designs of the building, combined with the spiral theme in the stairs, as well as the several other geometric shapes. We went through a room describing Gaudi’s style and inspiration from nature, explaining how he was able to develop new column styles, his obsession with hexagons, and his inspiration from shapes of nature. As we walked back into the cathedral, I saw it with fresh eyes and saw everything as a modernist interpretation of a giant stone forest. It was hard to tear myself away and leave, but finally we realized we had seen every corner of the church and admired every column and had no reason to stay longer.

 

 

 

 

By the time we left, the sun was setting, and we decided to just wander around the city. We stopped to get gelato as well as Catalan pastries and at a cafe for some tea, but otherwise just admired the charm of the city and the relaxed  way the Spaniards enjoyed their Saturday.

The next day, Gavin left in the morning, so I spent the day with my aunt and cousin, once again walking around the city. After stopping for lunch, we walked around the city and wandered through large beautiful parks until we decided to go to the Picasso Museum, as they said they had always seen the line and not gone inside, so I figured it would be a good excursion for all of us. Though most of Picasso’s better known artwork is in Paris, this museum was largely a collection of his early works which showed his transition from typical artist to eccentric abstract artist. It was fascinating to see a museum displaying the artwork of one artist and how his art changed and was effected by various events in his life and people he met. That was the end of my Barcelona site-seeing, as a lot of my weekend was also just spent relaxing at my aunt’s apartment. It got me looking forward to going home, which is in about a month!

For now, I’ll just have to settle with the renowned Strasbourg Christmas markets, and Colleen coming to visit just in time to catch the launch and the lighting of all the decorations this weekend. I can’t wait! Though this is the end of my travel blogs, there will be plenty more to come on the Christmas markets and how I handle this last month.

My London Fantasies Become Reality

In my mind, I often associate several alternative lives I would have like to live with England—the indie music scene, the 19th century countryside lifestyle, being a wizard like Harry Potter, and the list goes on. During my weekend in London, I was able to see glimpses of what these scenes spun by my imagination would have actually looked like in real life. What I was not prepared for was the feeling of familiarity and comfort I found in London, despite having the stomach flu the whole time.

In fact, I almost didn’t make it to London. I came down with awful stomach pains and nausea on Thursday and was so ill that I was prepared to not be able to board the plane Friday evening. However, I woke up feeling much better on Friday, and decided to go through with the travel plans. Unfortunately, given my fragile state, my traveling did not go smoothly at all (probably just some balancing act by the universe to counteract the smooth travels I had in Italy). Even though I’d very much like to forget the struggle, I feel like I must recount it just to re-emphasize my point in the previous Italy post about how I tend to not stress when traveling (though this was fiasco was pushing it a bit too far). Also, to distract from the story below, I’m filling in some of my London photos.

I got on the bus from Strasbourg to Baden-Baden Airport in Germany at 12:50pm and arrived at the airport an hour later. Though my flight wasn’t until 6:15pm, this was the only bus that would have gotten me there on time. So I was prepared with a bottle of water, several bland Melba toast crackers, and a book to wait for 5 hours. Remember throughout this whole ordeal, my stomach is still churning and my body is still sore from being sick. At 6pm as we are in line to board the plane, they announce that our flight is delayed indefinitely. About 30 minutes later, I receive a text saying our new expected departure time was 9:55pm. To make it up to us, RyanAir gave everyone vouchers for 5 euros to buy food at the airport. Of course we get free food when I am unable to eat food. So I sit in the airport for about 9 hours and wait. Luckily, our flight goes smoothly, and we land in Stansted. I had looked up on the internet how to get to the hostel from there, and it said I could take the tube to the hostel, and the tube was directly under the airport. I even asked at customs, and the officer directed me to 2 floors down to find the tube. Of course, 2 floors down, I arrive at the train station, where they inform me we are 40 miles out of London, and of course the tube does not run out this far. I have to buy a bus ticket from the airport to a station in central London from where I can take the tube. The bus ride takes over an hour, and by the time we arrive at the station, the tube has closed (what big city’s metro system closes at midnight?!). I had been texting Colleen and got instructions to take the city bus from the station to the hostel, and after paying the ridiculously high price for public transportation (it must be the most expensive in the world—about the equivalent of $3.70 for a one way bus ticket and $6.90 for a metro ticket compared even to the Paris metro of about $2.20 for the metro), finally made my way to the right bus station close to my hostel. Even then, it took walking up and down the streets a few times before I found the hostel, where, exhausted from my travel struggles, I fell asleep without any difficulty.

Our first day in London was dreary, but we were determined to avoid the expensive public transportation as well as see a lot of the city by just wandering from our hostel to the direction of the main sites. It happened to be the day of the Lord Mayor’s parade, and we stopped at several intersections to watch the procession. We walked along the Thames River to Buckingham Palace, Westminster Abbey, Big Ben, and that area of big London sites, though we did not enter yet. We did however go into the British Museum and saw the Rosetta Stone. We then took our time passing through several exhibits randomly. Much of the day was just spent talking with Colleen about our study abroad experiences, reminiscing about Georgetown, as well as talking excitedly about our upcoming semesters back in the states. We also wandered to the Picadilly Circus, which is almost the Times Square of London with major shopping. That night, my stomach was feeling much better, and it had been my desire to eat Indian food. We went to a restaurant, Dishoom, near the Soho area that was all decked out in Christmas decorations (already!). I picked the Chicken Ruby in hopes that it wasn’t too spicy. We also ordered cheese and garlic na’an to eat with it. It was all delicious (but unfortunately for me the next morning, did not settle too well with my stomach and now seems to have killed any desire in me for Indian food :/)

The next day was gorgeous, with blue skies and barely any clouds, we set out to do our tour of the London Tower. Too bad the one day that was nice was when my stomach was hurting the worst, so I had to stop frequently and couldn’t eat all day. The view crossing the Tower Bridge was very worth it however, and I reflected on how modern of a city London is compared to the other European cities I’ve seen. It seems like a big city in the U.S. Even as we explored the history of England in the Tower of London and saw the Crown Jewels, I was struck by how differently the British presented their history. Whereas in Italy and France, all the museums have a large feeling of historical importance behind every statue and painting, the British took their historical site and put actors in it to reenact scenes of fake dialogues between historical figures, and used flashing lights on historical artifacts. It all seemed gaudy and unnecessary and diminished the historical importance of what we were seeing. Maybe they had wanted to make it more appealing for children, but whatever it was, it held less appeal for me. Luckily, that was never what really interested me about London, so I wasn’t too disappointed, but my advice for others (dad..)—the historical sites are not really worth it. Maybe it is a must see, but I would never pay the high entrance fees to go through it again. London is great as a city, and that is what I appreciated about it, but its tourists sites as compared to the rest of Europe (or maybe even the U.S.) leave something to be desired. My conclusion: London would be great to live in, but I didn’t feel like I was missing too much when I was distracted by my stomach from the tourist sites. However, I will say this—the sites along the Thames River, like the bridges and the Eye are beautiful at night all lit up. This is the only city I would say that I’ve seen light up the monuments like this.

The next day was rainy again, so we decided to spend our last day at the Westminster Abbey. We walked across the Millennium Bridge, which is featured in the 6th Harry Potter movie! (the only movie site we visited) to the main part of the city again. We happened to be in London during Veteran’s Day, and the entire city was promoting the poppy appeal, so everyone was sporting poppies in support of their troops. Furthermore, the outside of the Abbey was filled with memorials for fallen soldiers not just from England, but from all over the world, and the lawn was filled with crosses and poppies. It was very touching to see everyone admiring these and the entire city giving so much thought to the fallen veterans.

We then toured the whole abbey, though we weren’t allowed to take pictures inside. It was interesting seeing some gothic architecture, but after Rome, I was thoroughly unimpressed. Though it was beautiful as well, it seemed so much more disorganized, with statues and monuments placed randomly through the Abbey, it seemed almost like a storage building for tombs and important artifacts that was poorly organized. Furthermore, the British aren’t as into restoration and upkeep of these artifacts as the Italians, as even the tombs that may have once been ornately decorated were now but a dull bronze with no intricate designs. However, it was interesting to hear the history of England and the more familiar names of those who were buried in the Abbey (including Jane Austen as the book I had brought to read on this trip was Pride and Prejudice).

After the Abbey, we walked to Hyde Park to have an afternoon tea time, without realizing just how far away it was. As we finally got to the Park, I was already dragging my feet, having no energy from food and not sleeping enough for being sick. Especially in the dreary weather, it was hard to be cheerful, but even in that state, I could appreciate the tranquility and beauty of the Park. I felt like I was transported back in time to a Jane Austen novel or to the English countryside. As we finally made our way all the way across the park, which let me tell you, is HUGE, we found Kensington Palace, and next to it, the Orangery where we took an afternoon tea, complete with Earl Grey tea, little sandwiches, scones, and assorted pastries. Being the first meal I’d had in over a day, the traditional tea time restored my spirits and left me with a feeling of contentment with London.

Though I was inhibited and distracted much of the weekend with my stomach pain, I don’t feel like I missed too much, as London’s sites and food aren’t the main attraction. Instead, I felt the appeal of living in this city, and hope to return in the near future (either if my parents end up living there or if I end up living there post-graduation—I can only hope!)

Venezia: Floods and Sunshine

I had heard from many people that 3 days was too long to spend in Venice. Though it’s true we did see all the big sites (and we ended up in St. Marco’s Square everyday), I couldn’t have picked a better city to spend 3 days wandering, exploring, and getting lost. Each day was so different from the previous, and every corner we turned took us to a new street, a new canal, and a different scene.

As we got off the train from Venice, still soaking from our Florence trip, the first thing I sensed was the smell of the ocean and fish. It was nighttime and pouring rain, so we walked as fast as we could to the hostel, yelling to each other over the torrent of rain about the amount of rain as well as marveling at the beauty of the city from what we could see through the darkness and rain. When we got to the hostel, we found we once again had a private room with individual beds. Quite frankly, we hit the jackpot with hostels on this trip, as we found a better hostel at each city we went to. After we showered and dried off, we looked through the window and saw the canals waters break over the walls and flood the streets. We went to bed feeling very excited that we were in Venice while it was flooding.

The next morning, everyone’s excitement was gone when we realized that the streets were all flooded with around 10 inches of water. We heard that in St. Marco’s Square, the water reached up to people’s mid thighs. This was the day that I was so thankful I paid the fee to check a bag and take my rain boots to Italy. Emma woke up early to explore, so I let her borrow my rain boots. When she returned while I was eating breakfast (which was included at the hostel, bonus!), she squelched into the room wearing cheap rain boots she had bought at a store. Mine were dry luckily, but her’s were wet because the water level was higher than her newly purchased boots. I put on my rain boots, but everyone else had to go barefoot to find new rain boots. In fact, it was quite the adventure to watch them find ways to navigate the water, while I was able to slosh through the flood securely wearing my rain boots. Everyone’s shoes got soaked before they went barefoot, but it’s not safe to be barefoot for too long (the unclean water can cause fever), so they also resorted to tying plastic bags around their shoes, which didn’t work too well. However, once we all got rain boots, our collective excitement picked up again, and it was actually a lot of fun making our way through the flood waters to see the sites. Also, considering that Venice is sinking, how many times in my life will I be able to say I was in Venice when it was flooded?

As we were getting extremely hungry, we passed a restaurant selling special toast, which was essentially a small personal pizza which was a bit overpriced, but worth it for the delicious flavors of Italian meats, vegetables, and herbs piled on a crunchy crust. We had no map, and Venice is a bit difficult to navigate, as there are no direct routes because of the canals, so we wandered through the city, getting lost, taking pictures at just about every bridge, and marveling at the beauty of the old buildings. We eventually made our way to the Rialto Bridge and then St. Marco’s Square (luckily the flood waters had receded a lot). My camera died before we made it to the Square, which I was very bummed about. We went up the bell tower to see the view over Venice, which was breathtaking. We could see all the islands and the expanse of the city. I managed to squeeze a bit more life out of my camera and got a couple photos from the top of the bell tower. As we descended the bell tower and walked around St. Marco’s Square, I was struck again by the realization of how different each city in Italy is, and how much history and elaborate architecture can exist in any one of these cities. I had never thought before exactly how much is in Italy.

As we decided to make our way back to our hostel (which ended up taking 2 hours because we kept turning onto random streets accidentally), we passed countless pastry shops, and we got bad cravings for cannoli. We stopped into a dessert shop to get cannoli, but then a tiramisu caught my eye, which I decided to get instead. It was the best tiramisu I’ve ever had. It was so creamy, thick, and chocolatey. The cake was soaked in coffee liqueur that made is so flavorful.

For dinner (please excuse all the descriptions of what I ate, but food was a big highlight of the trip), we wandered back to the Ponte Rialto to a restaurant called Trattoria alla Madonna that we had passed earlier in the day. It was a bit pricey, but we were determined to have Venetian seafood, and for seafood, this restaurant was quite modestly priced. The wait didn’t seem to long, so we went in, but after, the line expanded to 15 or 20 people. We were excited because it seemed like the restaurant was quite popular, and we realized that almost everyone else there was Italian. We knew we had found a more local restaurant that was more hidden from the tourists. By the door was a 3 shelf seafood display with lobsters, raw clams, crabs, squid, crab shells with shredded meat, all on beds of lettuce. The waiters were rotating through piling up plates with different seafoods to take to the kitchen. Across the aisle was a tiered table with assorted vegetables, like artichokes, squash, and carrots, as well as other sauces, including the squid ink sauce they were pouring over spaghetti (which I contemplated getting, but in the end, chickened out). We waited for quite a while, but in the end, got a table and a great meal. I split a calamari with Emma. The calamari was lightly breaded and less chewy than it is in the U.S.; it had a consistency more like scallops. My second course was the clam spaghetti. It was filled with full clam shells. I slowly worked to scrape each clam out of the shell, and we soon piled up a plate with clam shells. I took this as a good sign that there was a lot of seafood in the dish. The spaghetti was just a simple spicy tomato sauce, but each fork I spun had about 2 or 3 clams in it. This dinner was quite the splurge on seafood, but a nice dinner seemed worth it to eat fresh seafood in Venice.

Our second day in Venice could not have been more different from the first. The weather completely cleared, the water retrieved back several feet into the canal, and the sun and blue sky came out. Our first stop of the day was at the fish market to see all the freshly caught seafood. I was surprised to find skinned sharks, recognizable only by their heads. We also saw all the same seafood that was on display at the restaurant, so we knew that we must’ve had fresh seafood the night before. We then made our way to the fruit and veggie markets before getting on a water bus to Murano, driving through the canal into the open water to the island.

We walked through the island, looking for the smaller factories for free demonstrations and cheaper glass. We ended up seeing 2 demonstrations: the first, we saw the master blow the glass to form a vase, and then he used simple tools to create a horse, and the second master demonstrated how he rolled pieces of glass onto the larger hot glass to form the color patterns. We spent several hours at the island, browsing the shops and admiring the artwork before heading back to the mainland. I also spent quite the sum of money on Murano (not to mention all my previous Italy expenses), so we ended up buying pasta, beans, and sauce in a store to cook in our hostel. It was the second cheapest meal we had in Italy (thank you A Casamia), but equally satisfying.

On our last day, we waited in line to go inside St. Marco’s Basilica. We were quite tired of seeing all these churches, but this church was a bit different. The inside was much dimmer, and the entire ceiling was made of gold mosaic. Afterwards, we wandered across the Academia Bridge onto another island where we visited the Church of the Plagues. We had seen so many churches that it was getting old, but I can’t imagine how I will feel when I get back to the states and am no longer surrounded by all this beautiful old architecture.

After Venice, we trained to Bologna where we spent the night before taking our plane back to France. I’m back in Strasbourg, feeling glad to be back, yet finding that I suddenly don’t seem to have enough time between sorting my pictures and keeping with the blog, doing my schoolwork, keeping up with Georgetown registration, internship searches, and other travel plans. Before I know it, my adventures in Europe will be over. That is, depending on how the election turns out, maybe I’ll stay in France, or learn Italian and stay in Italy.

 

Firenze: a Step into the Renaissance

Though Florence was the shortest leg of our trip, those two days was all it took for me to fall in love with the warm city. Not only did I take too many food pictures (meaning I also ate too much food), but I also wandered through the city that felt comfortable as soon as we arrived, sensing the artistic magic of the city. Though I did not visit the Uffizi or Academia museums which house the famous Renaissance art, I did get to visit several monuments and churches where famous Renaissance characters are buried as well as see the most beautiful views of Florence.

We arrived in Florence on Monday night, and after a bit of confusion finding our bus and then walking to the hostel as well as the discovery that Whitney could use her french to communicate in Italian, we arrived at our hostel located at the base of the Pitti Palace behind which sits the renowned Boboli Gardens. We were quite excited to find that we had a private room and bathroom with a fresco painted on the ceiling, warm coral walls, and faux Monet paintings hanging on the walls. As we had friends who studied abroad in Florence before, we had a list of suggested places to visit, eat, and explore.

Our first day, we made our way to the large open air markets of Florence near Mercato Centrale. They reminded me of the markets in China (though less aggressive), and they sold a variety of scarves, leather goods, and other Italian specialties. We passed by the central food market where we were hit by the sight and aromas of Italian meats, cheeses, fresh pasta, sauces, and spices. We sampled some prosciutto and browsed through the colorful arrangements of pasta before picking out of some ready-made spinach and cheese ravioli covered in fresh pesto for a little early lunch/heavy snack.

After we made our way through the whole market, we began searching the city for what was recommended to us as “the pasta of our dreams.” Unfortunately, after walking in many circles and asking several Italians, we couldn’t find it. Instead, we settled for “the best pizza” at Toto’s. The three of us each bought 2 slices and sampled bites of each others. My first one was a potato and rosemary, which was delicious and had a delicious parmesan crust and the second was a prosciutto and mushroom which was savory and flavorful. Afterwards, while wandering around the center of the city, we decided we felt in the mood for some dessert to wash down our pizza. We found an artisan gelato and dessert shop, and each bought a cup of gelato. I got blueberry, wine, and coffee mousse, which I enjoyed while watching the rain falling outside. Florence was a bit of a culinary tour as well, in case you can’t already tell.

In the afternoon, we made our way to Santa Croce, a church near the famous Duomo which houses the tombs of several famous Renaissance actors, including Galileo, Michelangelo  and Dante Alighieri. The Santa Croce, along with the other big buildings in the city center are crafted in a different architectural style from what we’ve seen throughout Europe (and we’ve seen a lot of churches). The roofs are a bright, earthy red tone while the walls are composed of white and pink marble with dark green granite tiles. However, the back of the Santa Croce is perfectly lined up earthy brown brick. Everything within the building was colorful, from the paintings on the walls and ceilings to the geometrically tiled floor. At different points in the church stood monuments dedicated to famous Renaissance characters, which we stopped to admire and revel at the presence of such brilliance and skill.

In the later end of the afternoon, we made our way to Piazza del Michelangelo, but not before passing another tempting gelato store. At first, only Emma was going to get some, since the rest of us already had some earlier. However, we went into the store with her, and the store owner gave us samples. I only sampled one flavor–the apple pie. As soon as I saw him scoop up one scoop for Emma for a cheap price, I threw away all willpower and got a cone of apple pie gelato. It was so creamy and tasted so good; it was also refreshing, and I slowly ate it as we walked up the steep hill to the Piazza. Good thing I was eating the gelato, because I realized on the way down that the road up to the Piazza was much steeper and longer than I remember on the way up. That gelato did the trick in distracting me and cooling me down, though the benefits of climbing a hill were mitigated by my eating the gelato. We reached the vista just as dusk fell, and we saw the city in a deep blue hue as the city lights began to turn on. It was beautiful to see the dark clouds and blue mountains in the background with the city that is so colorful even in the coming darkness in the foreground. We then walked around the piazza and stopped by the statue atop the piazza that was created by Michelangelo–it was a bronze copy of his statue David. Though it’s not the original, it was still crafted by the Renaissance artist. Looking upon the beautiful city beside this important piece of artwork really felt like I was in a city of enlightenment.

As we descended the piazza, we contemplated the idea of dinner. None of us were too hungry, so we walked between 5 restaurants, glancing at the menus, unable to make a decision. We talked about the psychological study that having too many choices actually makes people unhappy. When you have fewer choices, there is less that you think you’re missing out on. That being said, some of my friends really wanted the pear ravioli at the expensive restaurant, whereas the rest of us really wanted a cheaper meal. In the end, we decided the first restaurant was too expensive, the second had too long of a wait, and ended up going to the third, one that I had found online, called Gusta Osteria. We originally had wanted to share dishes, but in the end, we all ended up ordering our own plates. I opted for the original spaghetti with pomodoro sauce (a simple tomato sauce) and basil that I had been wanting to eat since I got there. After all, you can’t really go to Italy and not have the classics right? It was another culinary success of the day (and I was no longer sure what meal I was on at that point…)

The next day, we woke up bright and early to climb the Duomo, the famous red Dome visible throughout the whole city. As we climbed up, we were able to stop halfway up and go onto the interior balcony of the church. Looking up, we were able to see the amazing painting on the inside of the dome, depicting different layers, with hell at the bottom, earth in the middle, and heaven up top. We craned our necks and stared and analyzed the painting for several minutes. We marveled at the details of the painting, and mused over the difficulty of painting such a huge mural this high up. After 463 steps, we reached the top to find very few other tourists and an astounding view over the city. We were shocked to see how far it extended, as we had conceived the notion that Florence was a bit of a Strasbourg-size city. I simply stood there and took in the view of red roofs contrasted against the blue hills in the distance and the clouds rolling off of them. I walked around the whole balcony and took multiple pictures from every angle. I can only imagine how beautiful and warm it must be in the summer. Even though it was a bit cold, the warm colors of the city reminded us of how bright of a country Italy is, even with winter approaching.

Afterwards, we retraced a few steps from the day before and went back to Toto’s for pizza (this time I had a pesto and tomato slice followed by a spicy sausage slice), back to the open air markets to buy some scarves, and walked down random streets, entering churches that were free and looking around. Towards the end of the afternoon, we entered a modern cafe just as it started to rain again. We ordered a hot chocolate, and were surprised to find what was basically a cup of molten chocolate too thick to drink directly, and had to use a spoon to eat it. It tasted like hot chocolate pudding, and I enjoyed every mouthful. After, we finally found the A Casamia restaurant which supposedly had the “pasta of our dreams.” Not only was it delicious, but it was insanely cheap. I got tortellini in a meat and tomato sauce, water (which remember, usually costs extra), and an espresso for what was listed on the menu as 3.90 euros. However, when we paid, the cashier only took half of the money we tried to give her, so I ended up getting 2.50 euros back. Meaning, I only paid 1.40 for this meal. I guess in my dreams, delicious pasta is also incredibly cheap.

As our time in Florence was winding down, we had one last activity on our itinerary: the Boboli Gardens. Unfortunately it was raining, but we managed to buy the discounted EU citizen tickets (thank you EU student ID!) and walked around the quaint gardens while the rain picked up, scaring away any other tourists. As we made our way through the gardens, I reflected on my time in Florence. For some reason, this city makes me feel nostalgic. Though I’ve never been here, it reminds me of all the schooling I’ve had on Renaissance history, literature, art, science, and on and on, but also of unrelated things, like books I’ve read and songs I listen to. All I could think of after seeing Rome and Florence was how is it possible that one country could produce such a diverse range of talented people, from the Romans with their ancient cities to the Renaissance with its astounding art and advancements in other fields as well.

 

Even as the rain picked up, we continued through the gardens. On the bright side, we were actually alone in the huge gardens that were so green it looked like spring. It was decorated with statues and fountains, patches of flowerbeds, and stone mosaics. On the down side, the rain had picked up so much that it had actually soaked through my rain coat. Afterwards, when I stopped into a grocery store, I actually wrung water out of my coat. We got on our train in that disheveled, soaking state, smelling like wet dogs, but we were still content because we were on our way to Venice.

 

Roma: History and a View

When I thought of Italy before my trip, I always thought of big Italian families eating spaghetti–I know, stereotyping, but that was what came to mind. So as I set out for Italy, I was imagining all the food I would eat, not realizing that I was traveling to one of the most diverse, culturally rich countries in the world.
As we had to catch a bus to the airport, fly a sketchy low cost airline, and take another bus to get to our hostel, I realized two things. The first: my travel style is similar to my parents in that I am relatively relaxed and unstressed. I’m in a mindset of “I’ll get there regardless.” My friends were stressing if the bus we were on was the right bus, if we were supposed to check-in for our flight earlier, or if where the public transportation was, but I was almost always assured that we were on the right bus and on-time, and couldn’t work up the energy to be as stressed–which turned out to be a good thing as we had a very smooth ride to Rome. The second realization is that RyanAir is a cheap airline…that may not necessarily be worth it. Our ticket there was more expensive than usual, plus all the extra administrative and bag fees, not to mention the non-stop advertising as soon as we stepped aboard the plane. The speakers were constantly informing us of a new product to buy and the flight attendants were less flight attendants than salespeople trying to get us to buy everything from lottery tickets to smokeless cigarettes. It was an hour and a half of annoying commercials, but luckily I slept through most of it with my headphones in. On the bright side, we did have quite the amazing view as the sun was setting.
As we landed in Rome, it started to rain, but the temperature was still perfect. It was nice being south when it had started snowing in Strasbourg. After we settled in the hostel, we went out to get our first taste of Italian food. Now, you’ll have to excuse all the photos of food I will post in these blogs (I’m getting hungry just thinking about it). As I ate my first dinner of pesto linguine, which was so fresh and creamy with large basil pieces and flavorful sauce that I could’ve had 2 more plates, I also reflected on the differences in Italian eating.

It was frustrating that Italians charge for water, and then seem disappointed when we never wanted to order drinks with our dinner. Also, their pasta and other foods always seemed saltier than I’m used to. Is the salt meant to make the pasta taste better (it works..) or to make the consumer thirstier so they’ll give in to buying drinks? Italians also eat several courses, but almost always, we just ordered pasta, which is their first dish. They usually have an antipasti, a 1st course, a 2nd course, and a dessert. I don’t understand how Italians are not all fat. One week of eating just the first course and the occasional dessert must’ve added a few pounds on me, even with the constant walking everyday.

As we faced our first full day in Rome, we had it all mapped out. Our first stop was the Trevi fountain. We stopped here to toss 3 coins over our left shoulder into the fountain. Luckily I had some 1 cent pieces in my wallet. The first coin is for luck, the second for love, and the last is to return to Rome. I flicked them off my finger, and my third one bounced off the edge of the fountain. I’m 90% sure it landed in the fountain, but I hope I didn’t jinx it, because I would love to go back to Rome. Even when I was in Venice looking through my pictures from Rome, I began to feel a sense of nostalgia.

 

After our short tour of the fountain, we found our way to what was recommended to us as “the best gelato in Rome” at San Crispino. We had been warned before our trip about “piled” gelato, which is gelato that looks overly garnished and piled up to entice customers, but is really made out of powder, unlike real gelato. San Crispino kept its gelato in covered tin containers, so we couldn’t see what it looked like,  but we learned that is a sign of good gelato. I picked a cup with pistachio, hazelnut, and caramel gelato. For my first Italian gelato, it was heavenly, with chunks of real nuts in the ice cream and rich flavors.

Afterwards, we began our cultural excursion for the day. We started at the Pantheon, and mused about the existence of these old, historical structures, just sitting in the heart of the modern-day city. As we walked through the columns to enter, I got my first site of a Roman monument–and my immediate impression was awe. How could we be in such a historical place, containing the tomb of Raphael and elaborate paintings and columns decorating the inside of the dome, just by walking from our hostel to the Vatican?

After walking around the Pantheon, we made our way to the Vatican (after grabbing a cheap pizza lunch, and even though it was cheap, we could still taste the freshness of the vegetables). We started at the Musei Vaticani, then went to the Sistine Chapel, then ended at St. Peter’s Basilica. Every room we went in, I had to pause to take it all in (as well take several photos)–the detailed, bright paintings on the walls, the elaborate chiseled and painted ceilings plated in gold, and the stunning view out the windows. My immediate thought was “how did they do all this?” It is incredible to think this much art and beauty is contained within one tiny city. I also wondered about the value of the Vatican and how much effort is put into the upkeep of every painting and sculpture. It was incredible to see these renowned, priceless paintings not hanging in a frame, but rather painted directly on the walls of the Vatican, like the world’s most valuable wallpaper. It is impossible to capture the stunning beauty of the Vatican, and I clearly remember actually having my breath taken away several times as I walked through the room of the Museum and saw the Sistine Chapel and Basilica. My pictures do a poor job of capturing the stunning colors and perfectly detailed sculpture and paintings that lined the hallways of the Vatican.

The next day, we went to the Colosseum; I was intending on spending maybe an hour or so, but a walk through the Forum turned into a 4 hour visit to the ancient ruins. We were struck by the history of the Colosseum when we saw a carving into the wall with someone’s name and the year 1944. We pictured someone from the WWII era doing the same thing we were doing then, and we reflected on just how long this structure had been here. We walked through every layer and took pictures out of almost every archway. We wondered if anything in the United States would ever be this historically symbolic and able to withstand time. After, we started to walk to through the ancient ruins next to the Colosseum, looking for the forum, until we realized that the entire ancient city was in fact the forum. Though there wasn’t too much to look at, we marveled at the ancient ruins and tried to imagine what it would have been like to live in the city when it was built. We picked olives and oranges from trees hanging in the garden (the olives weren’t ripe and tasted like leaves, and the oranges were still green, but we shared one–it tasted sour like a lime). I think we explored every path of the city, and as the sun was sinking lower in the sky while we sat on the wall of of the crumbling stadium, we realized that we were still in Rome. Our little tour through the ancient city felt like we had taken a day trip to another place, another country even, but we were still in the city I associate with delicious pasta 🙂

That night, we found a a bar in a hipper neigorhood of Rome that served chocolate shots. The drinks were served in small chocolate cups, filled with various liqueurs, and topped with real whipped cream and chocolate shavings. I got two–the first one was a coffee liqueur, and the second was a chocolate liqueur. You’re supposed to take the whole cup and drop it into your mouth, bottom first. At first you can’t taste anything, but then you crunch down on the chocolate cup and the liqueur and whipped cream fill your mouth. The first one was too strong and luckily I was able to wash it down after swallowing the chocolate cup, but the second one was so delicious, I was tempted to get another. My deflating wallet restrained me.

On our last day in Rome, we wanted to take our time to just walk through the city and enjoy the day, and see sights we hadn’t seen. We split up, each intent on our own itinerary. I went with Marina to the Vittori Emmanuelle building. We got to the looming white, columned structure while it was raining, but while we were weaving our way through the museum, the rain stopped and the blue sky emerged just as we stepped onto the terrace. We saw the amazing view overlooking Rome, including the Colosseum not too far away. Once again, we were struck by how these ancient structures fit in so well to the modern city. I admire how instead of rebuilding the city with the passage of time, they continued to add to it, thus preserving the rich history. We found a café atop the building, and were pleasantly surprised that the prices were not too expensive for a rooftop restaurant on a historical building. We each got a cappucino and shared a croissant sandwich with argula, brie, and smoked salmon and a sandwich with tomato, mozzarella, and eggplant, which we enjoyed while overlooking the rooftops of Rome.

After, we made our way to the Campo di Fiori market where we found many vendors selling all kinds of goods, from olive oil, balsamic vinegar, and pasta to vegetable shapers and fresh fruit. I picked up a few culinary goods at the market and even got a fruit cup with sweet grapes, melon, and an Italian fruit at a discounted price while the markets were shutting down. We then made our way to the Spanish steps and climbed to the top. We then walked down the hill, the whole time with a view of Rome with huge storm clouds juxtaposed with the blue sky with a low afternoon sun. We marveled at the colorful houses and how warm the city felt, despite the rain shower that had just passed. Unfortunately, the sun obstructed any good pictures I tried to take, but I didn’t stop trying. As a result, I have several pictures in which you can see the dim outline of the city with a bright light from the sun.

As we walked down the hill, I reflcted on how much detail the Romans put into everything. Every seemingly insignificant fountain, corner of a church, carved flower, painting on a wall, etc. is so exquisite and detailed that nothing in the U.S. can even compare.

Honey Crunch

This is a bit of a random post, but I felt like I should write it anyways.

I’m not a huge fan of apples–yes they sometimes taste good and are satisfy the need for a fruit, but most of the time, there is just something lacking, whether it’s not sweet enough or not crispy enough.

However, we discovered these honey crunch apples in Strasbourg, and I’ve been eating them quite frequently, and I talk about them so often that I felt the need to write a blog post (also because I finished my work for the week and felt like I should post something mundane before Italy).

These apples taste better than any candy or dessert. They are so juicy and crunchy and sweet; I have literally never had fruit like this. Usually I buy several at a time at the grocery store and eat them within a couple days. When I brought 2 in my bag to Paris, hoping I could save them for when I needed a little snack, I couldn’t resist and ended up eating both within the first hour of the train ride.

Whenever I eat these apples, I always eat it right down to the core. I eat it so aggressively that the seeds always pop out as I am trying to eat everything but the very center core. I oftentimes find apple seeds on my floor or in my bed…

Unfortunately, I could only buy 3 today–the only downside of leaving for Rome in two days.

Snails

While walking in Paris, we remarked how few restaurants seemed to serve the stereotypical French foods (other than baguettes and cheese), such as escargots. I mentioned this to my host mom when I got back, and she asked if I’d ever tried them. I had tried them once before at a French restaurant in Georgetown when my friend’s mom came to visit and took us out to dinner. I was so nervous that time, but the escargots were so small and swimming in a ton of butter and pesto sauce, so you could barely taste it–it was mainly just the flavor of the sauce, which of course was delicious.

[A song that is quite fitting: Snails by The Format]

 

I came to dinner tonight to see a plate of about 10 quite large snails awaiting me. There was the sauce on it too (which my host mom informed me was made of butter [a lot of it], garlic, and bercy sauce [made with white wine and shallots]), but as I pulled the first snail out of the shell with a toothpick, I was mildly terrified to find that the sauce barely covered one end of the black rubbery snail.

However, it was much better than I had expected. The sauce was of course, quite good, but didn’t mask the taste or texture of the escargot, so it was like tasting it for the first time. And honestly, there’s not much taste. The texture is a bit softer than that of clams or mussels, so it went down a lot easier too. It was quite delicious; I finished all ten.

Fall Colors

Today, we took advantage of one of the few weekends most of us were in Strasbourg (as we’ll all be traveling quite a bit the next few weeks) and went for a hike in the Vosges mountains. We took a train to Selestat at 6:50am and then a bus to Saint Die des Vosges before setting out for the trail from the train station.

It was beautiful; we encountered a few bikers, but no other hikers. The 8 of us walked up the easy trail and stopped at all the vistas to take pictures of the view of the town from up high. We also climbed on some interesting rock formations.

Overall, it was a great day–it was great to get out and get some exercise, and the weather was beautiful. We went the perfect weekend because the temperature is about to take a major dip at the end of this week, just as I head out to Italy.

Weekly Update

This week flew by. It feels like I just got back from Paris yesterday, but already, I sat through my 18 hours of class in 3 days, and it’s the weekend again! I think this is the most excited I’ve felt about spending a weekend in Strasbourg since I’ve arrived. Most of the Georgetown students are here this weekend, so we’re planning on trying to find new places in the city.

 

We are determined to find some new hole-in-the-wall restaurants to find cheap, authentic food as well as explore new bars and clubs. During the rest of the time, we are going on a hike on Sunday in the Vosges mountains, which should be fun. It’ll be nice to get into the mountains, even though my host mom is very skeptical about us going. I tried explaining the hiking culture in Colorado, but she doesn’t seem to believe me. I told her we hike 14ers a lot, and converted it to 4,200 meters, and she didn’t believe me–she was convinced I was confused and was trying to say 400 meters high instead of 4,000. Oh well.

Otherwise, classes are going pretty well. We’re at that point that we’ve been to enough classes to be able to tell the difference between professors and classes in their teaching style. At first, everything seemed so similar–just lectures in French. But now we can pick out which professors are good lecturers, and which ones are actually really boring. For example, Europeanisation of Postcommunist States–so easy to follow along and understand the professor, even for 2 hours. On the other hand, History of European Security, it’s hard to pay attention for even 10 minutes. I have been getting a better grasp of my accounting and finance courses though, and in doing the homework, got all the problems down, so I’m feeling more confident about it!

That’s about it for now–I’m looking forward to this weekend, but after this, I’ll be traveling for 4 weekends straight which will take me right into mid-November. I can’t believe how it’s flying by!