When I thought of Italy before my trip, I always thought of big Italian families eating spaghetti–I know, stereotyping, but that was what came to mind. So as I set out for Italy, I was imagining all the food I would eat, not realizing that I was traveling to one of the most diverse, culturally rich countries in the world.
As we had to catch a bus to the airport, fly a sketchy low cost airline, and take another bus to get to our hostel, I realized two things. The first: my travel style is similar to my parents in that I am relatively relaxed and unstressed. I’m in a mindset of “I’ll get there regardless.” My friends were stressing if the bus we were on was the right bus, if we were supposed to check-in for our flight earlier, or if where the public transportation was, but I was almost always assured that we were on the right bus and on-time, and couldn’t work up the energy to be as stressed–which turned out to be a good thing as we had a very smooth ride to Rome. The second realization is that RyanAir is a cheap airline…that may not necessarily be worth it. Our ticket there was more expensive than usual, plus all the extra administrative and bag fees, not to mention the non-stop advertising as soon as we stepped aboard the plane. The speakers were constantly informing us of a new product to buy and the flight attendants were less flight attendants than salespeople trying to get us to buy everything from lottery tickets to smokeless cigarettes. It was an hour and a half of annoying commercials, but luckily I slept through most of it with my headphones in. On the bright side, we did have quite the amazing view as the sun was setting.
As we landed in Rome, it started to rain, but the temperature was still perfect. It was nice being south when it had started snowing in Strasbourg. After we settled in the hostel, we went out to get our first taste of Italian food. Now, you’ll have to excuse all the photos of food I will post in these blogs (I’m getting hungry just thinking about it). As I ate my first dinner of pesto linguine, which was so fresh and creamy with large basil pieces and flavorful sauce that I could’ve had 2 more plates, I also reflected on the differences in Italian eating.
It was frustrating that Italians charge for water, and then seem disappointed when we never wanted to order drinks with our dinner. Also, their pasta and other foods always seemed saltier than I’m used to. Is the salt meant to make the pasta taste better (it works..) or to make the consumer thirstier so they’ll give in to buying drinks? Italians also eat several courses, but almost always, we just ordered pasta, which is their first dish. They usually have an antipasti, a 1st course, a 2nd course, and a dessert. I don’t understand how Italians are not all fat. One week of eating just the first course and the occasional dessert must’ve added a few pounds on me, even with the constant walking everyday.
As we faced our first full day in Rome, we had it all mapped out. Our first stop was the Trevi fountain. We stopped here to toss 3 coins over our left shoulder into the fountain. Luckily I had some 1 cent pieces in my wallet. The first coin is for luck, the second for love, and the last is to return to Rome. I flicked them off my finger, and my third one bounced off the edge of the fountain. I’m 90% sure it landed in the fountain, but I hope I didn’t jinx it, because I would love to go back to Rome. Even when I was in Venice looking through my pictures from Rome, I began to feel a sense of nostalgia.
After our short tour of the fountain, we found our way to what was recommended to us as “the best gelato in Rome” at San Crispino. We had been warned before our trip about “piled” gelato, which is gelato that looks overly garnished and piled up to entice customers, but is really made out of powder, unlike real gelato. San Crispino kept its gelato in covered tin containers, so we couldn’t see what it looked like, Â but we learned that is a sign of good gelato. I picked a cup with pistachio, hazelnut, and caramel gelato. For my first Italian gelato, it was heavenly, with chunks of real nuts in the ice cream and rich flavors.
Afterwards, we began our cultural excursion for the day. We started at the Pantheon, and mused about the existence of these old, historical structures, just sitting in the heart of the modern-day city. As we walked through the columns to enter, I got my first site of a Roman monument–and my immediate impression was awe. How could we be in such a historical place, containing the tomb of Raphael and elaborate paintings and columns decorating the inside of the dome, just by walking from our hostel to the Vatican?
After walking around the Pantheon, we made our way to the Vatican (after grabbing a cheap pizza lunch, and even though it was cheap, we could still taste the freshness of the vegetables). We started at the Musei Vaticani, then went to the Sistine Chapel, then ended at St. Peter’s Basilica. Every room we went in, I had to pause to take it all in (as well take several photos)–the detailed, bright paintings on the walls, the elaborate chiseled and painted ceilings plated in gold, and the stunning view out the windows. My immediate thought was “how did they do all this?” It is incredible to think this much art and beauty is contained within one tiny city. I also wondered about the value of the Vatican and how much effort is put into the upkeep of every painting and sculpture. It was incredible to see these renowned, priceless paintings not hanging in a frame, but rather painted directly on the walls of the Vatican, like the world’s most valuable wallpaper. It is impossible to capture the stunning beauty of the Vatican, and I clearly remember actually having my breath taken away several times as I walked through the room of the Museum and saw the Sistine Chapel and Basilica. My pictures do a poor job of capturing the stunning colors and perfectly detailed sculpture and paintings that lined the hallways of the Vatican.
The next day, we went to the Colosseum; I was intending on spending maybe an hour or so, but a walk through the Forum turned into a 4 hour visit to the ancient ruins. We were struck by the history of the Colosseum when we saw a carving into the wall with someone’s name and the year 1944. We pictured someone from the WWII era doing the same thing we were doing then, and we reflected on just how long this structure had been here. We walked through every layer and took pictures out of almost every archway. We wondered if anything in the United States would ever be this historically symbolic and able to withstand time. After, we started to walk to through the ancient ruins next to the Colosseum, looking for the forum, until we realized that the entire ancient city was in fact the forum. Though there wasn’t too much to look at, we marveled at the ancient ruins and tried to imagine what it would have been like to live in the city when it was built. We picked olives and oranges from trees hanging in the garden (the olives weren’t ripe and tasted like leaves, and the oranges were still green, but we shared one–it tasted sour like a lime). I think we explored every path of the city, and as the sun was sinking lower in the sky while we sat on the wall of of the crumbling stadium, we realized that we were still in Rome. Our little tour through the ancient city felt like we had taken a day trip to another place, another country even, but we were still in the city I associate with delicious pasta 🙂
That night, we found a a bar in a hipper neigorhood of Rome that served chocolate shots. The drinks were served in small chocolate cups, filled with various liqueurs, and topped with real whipped cream and chocolate shavings. I got two–the first one was a coffee liqueur, and the second was a chocolate liqueur. You’re supposed to take the whole cup and drop it into your mouth, bottom first. At first you can’t taste anything, but then you crunch down on the chocolate cup and the liqueur and whipped cream fill your mouth. The first one was too strong and luckily I was able to wash it down after swallowing the chocolate cup, but the second one was so delicious, I was tempted to get another. My deflating wallet restrained me.
On our last day in Rome, we wanted to take our time to just walk through the city and enjoy the day, and see sights we hadn’t seen. We split up, each intent on our own itinerary. I went with Marina to the Vittori Emmanuelle building. We got to the looming white, columned structure while it was raining, but while we were weaving our way through the museum, the rain stopped and the blue sky emerged just as we stepped onto the terrace. We saw the amazing view overlooking Rome, including the Colosseum not too far away. Once again, we were struck by how these ancient structures fit in so well to the modern city. I admire how instead of rebuilding the city with the passage of time, they continued to add to it, thus preserving the rich history. We found a café atop the building, and were pleasantly surprised that the prices were not too expensive for a rooftop restaurant on a historical building. We each got a cappucino and shared a croissant sandwich with argula, brie, and smoked salmon and a sandwich with tomato, mozzarella, and eggplant, which we enjoyed while overlooking the rooftops of Rome.
After, we made our way to the Campo di Fiori market where we found many vendors selling all kinds of goods, from olive oil, balsamic vinegar, and pasta to vegetable shapers and fresh fruit. I picked up a few culinary goods at the market and even got a fruit cup with sweet grapes, melon, and an Italian fruit at a discounted price while the markets were shutting down. We then made our way to the Spanish steps and climbed to the top. We then walked down the hill, the whole time with a view of Rome with huge storm clouds juxtaposed with the blue sky with a low afternoon sun. We marveled at the colorful houses and how warm the city felt, despite the rain shower that had just passed. Unfortunately, the sun obstructed any good pictures I tried to take, but I didn’t stop trying. As a result, I have several pictures in which you can see the dim outline of the city with a bright light from the sun.
As we walked down the hill, I reflcted on how much detail the Romans put into everything. Every seemingly insignificant fountain, corner of a church, carved flower, painting on a wall, etc. is so exquisite and detailed that nothing in the U.S. can even compare.